Thursday, 30 December 2010

Ruggedness of Cornwall

Cornwall offers a remoteness that almost equals the quietness and solitude found in the Scottish Highlands. The Lugger in Portloe is a boutique hotel trapped on the rugged beach of Portloe. The sea rushes into this small cove as high tide approaches and has all the signs of a smugglers cove. Looking out from the cottage we can see caves, dry at low tide and offer the perfect hiding place for smugglers and their 'bootie' not visible from the sea. At high tide the bootie would float away.


Steeped in history, The Lugger - Mail Review has for centuries been an inn. The landlord Black Dunston had a habit of smuggling french brandy into the cove, in 1890's hung for this misdemeanor. No free brandy here! The media love to find hot spots for relaxing and sophisticated breaks in the SW, and here is no exception read this excellent review from The Times .... The Lugger - Times Review


The sea is not far away and crashes against the rocks inducing sleep and dreams of French Mans Creek. Climbing the path above the village leads to views of Cornish headlands and is a wonderful reminder of how special this coastline is with it's creeks and rocky outcrops.


Weathering the storm
During the storms of November 2010, The Lugger was steeped in a deep flood as water cascaded down the hills into the village. During the night of 16 November, visitors were evacuated and the following day a massive plan was put in action to clear away the debris. The Lugger was flooded on two floors which included the kitchen, reception, lounge, restaurant and bar. The Kitchen was 6 feet deep in water. So there was nothing for it but to gut these floors... there was a spanner in the works - The Lugger was booked to host a wedding a month later so it was all hands on deck. Clearing the mud and sanitising took almost 3 days. A team of builders took on the challenge to have everything spick and span for the wedding on the 17 December. Staying at the Lugger meant they were 'on the job'. Richard Hartley and Russell Samsone said, 'We were all daunted by the task but were soon heartened when we witnessed the commitment with which the builders tackled their task. AND of course we were delighted when it was clear we would be ready to open on the 17th. FANTASTIC team work!' 


It is impressive to see the changes made to the interior of The Lugger now one of the most contemporary places to stay in Cornwall.


Experience
Three Ships at Portloe
The hotel is intimate with a log fire burning in the lounge, a great place to relax and plan the year ahead, snuggled up, all warm and cosy, anticipating the evening dinner. The food is expertly cooked, tasty and well presented with friendly and prompt service. It is mid winter and The Lugger encapsulates all the welcome wintery warmth inside while looking out at a raging ocean. People arrive after travelling down from the cities, excited at the thought of being in this remote spot for a few days and with them bringing life and a like minded appreciation. 


Cornwall Christmas Lights
The villages and towns of Cornwall during Christmas, exhibit strings of lights making pictures on cliffs, harbours and walls. the fishermen in the harbours decorate their boats. Mousehole is particularly well known for the splendour of it's festive lights.


A few highlights .....
Painter - Alfred Adams


The Lugger hangs a few images painted by Alfred Adams, a Cornish painter who is 100 years old. These paintings are vibrant and lively and reflect the quirkiness of the Cornish harbours, the colour and jauntiness of the fishing boats. Tregony Art Gallery is the only outlet for his paintings.


Alfred Adams an Artist at 100 years old




The King Harry Ferry 
The King Harry Ferry is an iconic part of Cornwall’s history. Established in 1888, it connects St Mawes and the Roseland Peninsula with Feock. The Kingswear and Dartmouth Higher Ferry is modelled on this ferry. Ferries are a great way to travel around the coast of Britain, a way to see views not easily accessible. 






Sunday, 19 December 2010

Italian Undertones in Devon

Light quality is a key factor for photographers, certain light reflects on angles and surfaces enhancing colour and shadows, creating drama and depth. Since living in the South West of the UK I have discovered a new quality of light on a daily basis, a light unfettered by pollution, a sun that rises slowly and takes it's time sinking and air clarity that brings out the depth of colours.


Today was no exception ... as we walked through Slapton, a quintessential Devon village, with thatches, pastel painted rendered cottages, smoke trailing from ancient chimneys and a quietness, stillness that takes you back in time. Amazingly the population of Slapton is approximately 400 and has over 50 listed buildings! Think Miss Marple and locations and you will picture a village like Slapton.


Sunday lunch at The Tower Inn never disappoints especially in winter ... an open blazing fire and friendly staff serve a fantastic Sunday roast of rare beef that melts in the mouth. It is cosy and so English. We visited here many times when camping at Slapton Sands  a well run and maintained site, with views of  Slapton Sands (actually .. pebbles)! Just a walk away from The Tower Inn and in the other direction the sea! With our friends, Gill and John and Kate, we camped here many times, supper at The Tower Inn (more a 'spit and sawdust' style of pub then) ... kite flying on the beach ... 'skimming stones and having fun"... I also did my longest run ever here with John ... our lovely friend who was a marathon runner ... he inspired me to run ... John was renowned for getting lost ... on this particular occasion we got very lost in the Devon lanes, nothing for it but to ... 'keep on running.' 


A leisurely walk through the village allows you to linger on each cottage, house and feature. Each is unique and there is something in each house that deserves greater inspection. The wall of the house in this image always attracts my attention. The colour of the paint, the Italian/Victorian architecture, the bridge across a very narrow road reminiscent of an Agatha Christie novel, romantic bygone times. 


Italian Prisoners of War were stationed in Brixham, a few miles away, they were brought in to widen roads and bridges during the second world war after the D-Day Disaster and Exercise Tiger landings at Slapton Sands. So perhaps there are Italian influences in this small village that had a large part to play during the war. Exercise Tiger


The colour, timeless, seems to last forever, glowing in the sunset, changes your mood bringing Italy into sharp focus.



Friday, 17 December 2010

Dartmouth .... The Attributes!!



.... Dartmouth a place to lunch with great friends outside even in November
My 8 year love affair with Dartmouth is worth unpicking. Time has taught me many things and one is that your quality of life is, in lots of ways, dependent on where you live and how you live in that place.
I love being engaged with life, wherever I am, in the environment, people, events, places to shop, eat and imbibe. 


Dartmouth is full of all the above, it is impossible to be lonely or bored here! It's like living on an island, no-one passes through on their way somewhere .... and those who have made that special effort to be here never want to leave. With just over 5,000 residents, Dartmouth buzzes all year round with a large influx of holiday makers in the summer bringing with them a holiday atmosphere.


The crucial ingredients are, in no particular order :
A WATERY EXSISTENCE
The feeling of safety that the hills create tumbling down to the River Dart - you could be anywhere in the world, spectacular & gorgeous views
 Life on the river and the many things you can do here on water - about 12 ferries which go to Totnes ... great shopping in this alternative town, Salcombe ... where all the trendies arrive in summer, Brixham ... new fish quay, Dittisham ... the Ferry Boat Inn and the AnchorStone for lunch, Agatha Christies House ... NT .. beautiful grounds overlooking the Dart, smaller ferries to the Castle - Sugary Cove or just across the river and back ... plus canoeing, fishing, sailing, crabbing ... all watery things!
 The exposed nature of the estuary when the weather comes in creating unpredictable ferry closures, dramatic skies, gale force winds whipping up the water
VIBRANT PLACES
 The Flavel housing a vibrant library and internet centre, a quality cafe, cinema with latest films, exhibitions and events
 The Royal Castle Hotel where the whole world seems to meet up ... it buzzes here with an eclectic mix of people enjoying murder mystery nights, events to celebrate almost every occasion ... great atmosphere and food
 Alf Fresco's which reminds me of the lanes in Melbourne... definitely the place where you will find locals starting their days on a hearty breakfast and robust conversation ... you can even get a 'flat white' 
• the shops that offer everything you need - no need to go to a city ever again!
PEOPLE MAKE PLACES
 The architecture - ancient, historical and attractive, full of life.
 most of all the people who are charming, adventurous, enjoying life, interesting .... creating a genuine community that is warm and open to others.
AND .... ART ...
• It's all in a word .... ART is Dartmouth with many quality galleries exhibiting great british art.


This is a flavour of life here, a place where people 'love where they live' and a place with a real heart.

Wednesday, 15 December 2010

In and around Dartmouth UK

Dartmouth is an ancient port that nestles on the banks of the River Dart. This naturally deep harbour was ideal for trading and many large and important ships visited and unloaded their goods here. Today Dartmouth is known for sailing, many beautiful yachts and motor boats of all sizes are moored up and down the river adding to the picturesque quality of the estuary. 
Dart Estuary  welcomes many super yachts and cruise ships into the safe haven of it's waters. How many places can you live where your view can so dramatically changed? 




We live on the banks of the river and are lucky to be in a position to capture activity, events and weather. Since living in this beautiful part of the UK I have come to appreciate more and more the wonderful light qualities of the South West. The South Hams is recorded as having the most sunshine in the UK creating regions (facing sw) with a similar climate to the mediterranean which explains why some gardens host very exotic plants.  In Kingswear, across the river from Dartmouth, we enjoy one of the mildest year round climates in the UK ... so spring arrives early, summer is long, autumn can be very warm and mellow and winters short.


Discover Dartmouth.com illustrates why this town is a 'town for all seasons'. Ideal for residents who are charmed by it's magic dust all year round, for tourists it is a wonderful place to be, come rain or shine, so during those seasons that challenge our thoughts where to go for a UK break, Dartmouth is ideal.


Here in the South Hams there are more artists per square mile than anywhere else in the UK. We are awash with galleries which exhibit the best that Devon has to offer. One of my favourites is D'Art Gallery | Artists, Exhibitions, Framing


In and around Dartmouth offers is a great source of images for photographers and here I will recording my experience of life on The River Dart and surroundings.